Problem with Argon One + PI 4B
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- I fixed the controller issue, in Retroarch there was an option for Gamepad 1 that would somehow link the analog stick to the D-Pad. When I turn it off, I can now use the inventory in Zelda like intended. For some reason, the game now freezes after 3-5 minutes (in fact, the whole console crashes). Maybe it's the ROM, I will try another one.
As for 2: Thanks, I will check that out!
- Yes, unfortunately, the abnormally long boot has been present all the time, even when I used my SD card with the latest Recalbox version on my friend's Pi 3 B +. When my Pi 4 B came, even before I applied the case or anything else, I just formatted the SD card, installed a fresh version of Recalbox and put it in, without any ROMs, modifications or whatever. Still, about 20 seconds after the PI starts, there's nothing.
Could it be my SD card? My friend had a red Samsung 64 GB card which reads "EVO plus", while I have a green Samsung 128 GB card which reads "EVO select".
I've read online that the "select" version is slightly slower than "plus", but that's supposed to apply only for the writing speed, while the reading speed is supposed to be almost identical.
All in all, the console needs 32 seconds now from pressing the power button to navigating the Emulation Station. I've deleted all intro videos but the shortest one (I like to have a video being played completely), it's just weird that there's nothing happening at first for sooo long.
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Little Update:
Zelda works now, it really was the ROM.
But geez, this resolution issue... I'm too stupid for that, I suppose. I had changed everything (recalbox.conf in "Share" and config in "Recalbox") to CEA 4 HDMI yesterday according to the French thread and all was well, except the lag in some N64 games. So, I tried "DMT 4 HDMI" and "CEA 1 HDMI", but the lag remained and since "CEA 4 HDMI" looked best, I changed everything back to that. But now, for no apparent reason, the screen is no longer centered and there are glitches everywhere. What the heck.
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@CidHigwind As I already said, I don't have an Rpi4 (unfortunately), but, as far as I know, in Rpi4 the N64 is really not very good, I believe there will be improvements in the next version, but, for now, unfortunately there is no solution for that:
https://forum.recalbox.com/topic/23263/n64-videomode-doesn-t-work-in-recalbox-conf
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@Zing
Yep, seems like that, as I said, most people seem to have problems with N64, especially on the Pi 4. Still, N64 games run a LOT better on my 4 than they did on the Pi 3B of my friend. Maybe it's because there, the resolution settings for the N64 weren't set correctly. Or maybe it was because that Pi 3B wasn't overclocked.
Yesterday, I managed to find the issue: While messinga round with CEA and DMT, I also tried some different settings in Retroarch, and one of the options HAS to be on or everything goes crazy (I think it was framebuffer emulation). Now, all games work properly again (for all this time, the ES and all other emulators kept working great, so it really is just a N64 issue), however, I must say, N64 worked best when Recalbox still was freshly installed with the only change being the change to CEA 1. That means there is likely some chance to improve the overall performance by some settings in Retroarch, but I really don't get most of them (Latency, filtering, framebuffer emulation, store to CPU cache, GPU / CPU usage etc. - hell, what IS all that!? :D). But since messing around with all the options is half the fun, I'm happy
Most of the (few) N64 games I would like to play run playable or perfectly already, so I will just wait for a new Recalbox version patiently.I have ordered a new SD card, the exact same my friend uses for the PI 3B, maybe that will reduce the long boot up time. And having 2 micro SDs allows for more freedom while trying out and comparing the best settings. I won't have to worry about messing things up, because I still have a functioning version as a backup.
By the way, I found out about the tvservice -m CEA / DMT thing and did that in Putty to find out the prefered resolution on my TV, but in BOTH cases, it says "0 options in this group" or something like that. But... it's just a regular Full HD TV, so shouldn't it be 1080p? Anyway, CEA 4 HDMI for overall settings and CEA 1 HDMI for the N64 seems to work best.
I keep enjoying this project, it's just awesome.
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@CidHigwind said in Problem with Argon One + PI 4B:
By the way, I found out about the tvservice -m CEA / DMT thing and did that in Putty to find out the prefered resolution on my TV, but in BOTH cases, it says "0 options in this group" or something like that. But... it's just a regular Full HD TV, so shouldn't it be 1080p? Anyway, CEA 4 HDMI for overall settings and CEA 1 HDMI for the N64 seems to work best.
This is strange, are you sure you typed correctly?
Test again, just in case, with both commands
tvservice -m CEA
tvservice -m DMTIf none work, just test tvservice and see the list of command options available for tvservice, see if any help you.
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@Zing
Yes, I typed everything correctly. I suppose it has something to do with the Argon One case and it's "translator" from micro HDMI to HDMI, because I once again lent the Pi 3B from my friend and tried the tvservice with the very same TV, and this time, there were different results. The prefered mode is CEA 16 (1080p), but since you said that would result in a slowdown, I'll stick with CEA 4.
Right now, I'm formatting the new micro SD card to test if it will boot any quicker, but it will take a while: It came with exFat on it and I've read something about "use Fat32!", so I tried to formate the 64 GB card, but right after that long process was finished, it said "volume is too big for Fat32" and now I have to format it with exFat again. All the other cards were formatted in exFat, too, so I think using that will be okay. -
from micro HDMI to HDMI
Yes, of course, that adapter micro HDMI to HDMI must be the problem.
The prefered mode is CEA 16 (1080p), but since you said that would result in a slowdown, I'll stick with CEA 4.
With your current level of knowledge about videomode, I believe that you can test CEA 16 and analyze if there is any slowness that affects you, a Pi4 4Gb may not feel any slowness, and, if it really slows down, you already know how to go back.
It came with exFat on it and I've read something about "use Fat32!"
Currently, exFat is the standard format for the SHARE partition, it is recognized by Linux, Windows, MAC, and I see no need to use FAT32. Some people insist that FAT32 is better, and if you wanted to format in FAT32 and Windows is limiting, use a specific formatting tool (not the standard Windows tool), or, format with Linux gparted.
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@Zing
I just hope that during the conversion from micro HDMI to regular HDMI, no image quality or performance is lost. I can't do anything about it, because it is not an adapter, but part of the case (which I would like to keep, because all in all, the Argon One case is great!).I'll stick to CEA 4 HDMI, it's fine, and some N64 games lag already, so I think I'll just let it be.
The new micro SD card didn't do anything, by the way, it still needs like 20 seconds until the intro video comes up. Maybe that will change with a newer Recalbox version, too, it's okay.
(Small) Problems seem to keep coming up (sometimes the PS4 controller reacts veeery delayed which can only be countered by a reboot, after which everything is fine), but as I said, that's part of the fun for me
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Update:
Well, I thought it was "solved", but here's something strange: A friend of mine was so impressed by my Argon One + Pi4 console that he wanted me to build one for him, too.
So, I ordered the exact same parts from Amazon that I used for my console, the only difference was that I used a micro SD card from SanDisk instead of Samsung.
As you can see in the beginning of this very thread here, I had quite a troublesome start with my own console, adjusting the video output, so when the parts for my friend's console arrived, I prepared for the same ordeal. But: plug and play, the image was perfect at the very first start and there were no sound problems at all. So I thought, maybe my SD card is the problem and exchanged his console with my own (same cables) and put his SD card in my console - which resulted in a cut-off image and missing sound, just like in the very beginning.
What the actual hell is going on? It was my understanding that there is no data at all on the Pi itself, so his console and mine should function absolutely identical when using the very same cables and SD card, shouldn't they?
The only thing I did different with my own is that in the very beginning, when I wanted to install Recalbox on the SD card for the very first time with the imager 1.5, I was too stupid and merely installed Raspbian instead of Recalbox. I booted my console and wondered why it looked like a regular Windows desktop, so I formatted the SD card and found out you have to actually pick Recalbox in the imager.
So...
Could it be that with that very first try (Raspbian instead of Recalbox) I somehow installed something onto my Pi which causes all kind of problems?Also, I encountered another problem involving the controllers: I've bought a Shanwan PS3 controller copy which works quite well (only now I found out that you don't need a Bluetooth dongle at all...) as long as you use a cable. When connected via bluetooth, all the buttons still work great, but the vibration doesn't. So I changed PS3 driver in recalbox.conf from "bluez" to "Shanwan" and now everything works fine, except the fact that the control is going nuts in Dosbox. So, all in all, I have to chose between "works for every system but without rumble" or "works with rumble but not for Dosbox" when used via bluetooth.
Maybe anybody knows a link to this whole Shanwan issue, especially concerning Dosbox?
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Could it be that with that very first try (Raspbian instead of Recalbox) I somehow installed something onto my Pi which causes all kind of problems?
I believe it has no relation.
What the actual hell is going on? It was my understanding that there is no data at all on the Pi itself, so his console and mine should function absolutely identical when using the very same cables and SD card, shouldn't they?
I have no way of knowing what exactly happened, but, I can say that your hardware is not necessarily exactly identical to his (although I am sure the technical specifications are the same):
For example, some time ago there was an update for my smartphone, I updated it, and my screen looked strange. At this point I discovered that there were 2 manufacturers for the screen, with 2 different drivers, and, identical technical specifications, but only half of the users had the problem (only those from manufacturer "X"). I had to stay almost a month with the strange screen, until they corrected it in a later update. - I don't think that's it, but there is always that possibility.
There is also the possibility that you have different revisions of the board, and / or different versions of the Firmware.
There is also the possibility that you just have a lot of bad luck: going back to the example of my smartphone, I have been with it for about 2 years and I have not had any serious problems, but I know of acquaintances who bought the same model and mentioned several problems that I never had (and these people ended up buying another smartphone in less than 6 months).So, all in all, I have to chose between "works for every system but without rumble" or "works with rumble but not for Dosbox" when used via bluetooth.
Sorry, but my first recommendation is: Running DOS games on the keyboard is better, I recommend that you use a keyboard (I know it's not what you want, but it's ideal, DOS games were not programmed for joysticks ).
My second recommendation is: try to remap the joystick, perhaps directly in DOsbox:
https://recalbox.gitbook.io/documentation/emulators/computosaures/dosboxIf it still doesn't work, see if it helps:
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@Zing
Thank you again for your detailed response!Yeah, hm, concerning the different video output behaviour, I have no clue. I could disassemble both consoles and try if it's that adapter platine of the Argon One case, maybe mine doesn't work properly. But I think I can't give it back to Amazon, it's been too long already. And my console DOES work properly now, it's just strange that I had to do all kind of tricks for my own console and none of them for my second try. But despite this, the performance is the same with both consoles, so it's okay. I think I'm just afraid that my own console could be broken.
As for the controller: I'm using Dosbox just for some oldschool platform games like Commander Keen which I have on Steam, and it's brilliant on TV with a controller. I already used the mapper (keyboard + mouse, Ctrl + F1 etc.) and it works perfectly, but only as long as I use a cable. I think it has something to do with the fact that the controller seems to be recognised as two different controllers: When I use an USB cable, Recalbox says "Shanwan PS3 Gamepad found", but when I remove the cable and connect the controller via bluetooth, it says "Playstation 3 Dualshock controller found". That's no problem as long as I keep the PS3 controller driver "bluez", the buttons I mapped in Dosbox work with and without the cable. But when I switch the driver to "Shanwan", the bluetooth version is totally screwed up, it's like all the buttons are numbered differently. Obviously, I should keep the "bluez" driver, but then the rumble feature doesn't work when I use bluetooth. Maybe I should try the other driver options like "official", too.
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I think I'm just afraid that my own console could be broken.
I have no way of giving a guarantee, BUT, in my opinion your console is not broken, and you were just unlucky to have to configure it (or, if you are optimistic, consider that: "you were lucky to have an opportunity to learn how to configure everything, and now you don't even need help"
)But, about the joystick, the available options are to change the drivers by testing the 3 available, and choose the most functional.
If you use an original joystick this should not happen, it is impossible for developers to test ALL possible hardware, so some driver incompatibilities end up happening...I don't think I can help you, but it may be useful to read:
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Some of you might be having the same problem I had. Here's the problem and how I fixed it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRNxv2CfLtI
It has to do with sloppy soldering on the daughterboard, in my case. Fixed it and it works great now.
