Posts made by Matra

@nicolas-jacquemin said in Audio Issue on GBA [Pi Zero W GPI Case]:

@sandalen_jesus Hi, answer is here :

https://forum.recalbox.com/topic/19874/gpi-case-problème-gba

It's work for me

It did for me too - thanks

Hi All,

Everything runs absolutely great on my GPI case with the Pi Zero W - apart from the audio on GBA games...

I've uploaded the bios, turned off WiFi. I have rewind turned off also. The game is pretty smooth and playable but the audio is very broken and sounds terrible - anybody got any ideas?

Cheers

@xtreemsurf @lesensei
Not sure if you've seen my other project here: https://forum.recalbox.com/topic/9934/guide-recalbox-on-7-tft I've made it as simple as possible for others to create what I did.

I'm making good progress on the smaller screen too (using the adafruit 2.8" screen) but that might go on temporary hold next week whilst I finish off my NESPi box

I'm very happy with the configs, custom splash screens and intro video on my 7" and consider that project done (so now I can play games on it more lol)

Need to implement my new idea with the fan in the nespi with power running off the switch and make a few other tweaks. Hopefully by the end of next week as I tend to tweak it on lunch breaks at work

@rockaddicted thanks, I'll have a look

Is there a config or anything anywhere that will allow me to choose the pins used for
"system.power.switch=PIN56ONOFF"

Pin 5 is used by the SPI CLK and that is being used on my screen... I want to add a way of turning it on/off with a gameboy power switch but unknown as to whether I need to recompile stuff or if there is a simple config where I can change it (as I haven't found it yet through exploring!!)

@voljega Thank you (again) for your help finding one of the files that I needed to!!

Not sure where to put this really but here felt like the best place.

I have created a guide outlining how to put the thing together and how to set it up. I've saved a lot of 'leg-work' by including all of the custom configs that I have created to suit the Raspberry Pi Foundation 7" TFT, pretty sure that's the only screen on the market (currently) that uses the DSI interface.

So what's included/covered?

• How to wire the screen and fit into the RPi Foundation TFT Case
• How to replace the SD card if you messed something up without dismantling the screen (though that is faster as only four screws!!)
• How to install themes
• Theme configs (plus fix for one of them)
• Optimised splash screens for 7" TFT (uses the older Recalbox logo)
• Screen rotation guide

What's not included:

• How to flash recalbox to an SD card (enough info on the main page for that!)
• BIOS files
• ROMS

The idea was to create a 'vanilla-esque' appearance so I kept all of the Recalbox branding, I have also included a file to mute the intro video as when playing out of speakers connected to the 3.5mm jack it can be quite loud compared to the games for some reason?!

Anyway, here is a link to the guide: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B99yqlJ4Qkw4VlVUMEVQWWpmLVU

It's only a first draft so be gentle, if anyone has any comments or suggestions feel free to let me know. I'm not going to act as a support desk but if more than one person has the same problem I obviously haven't covered it so will need to update something.

Hope you all enjoy my first 'real' contribution to the recalbox community

@lesensei That's exactly what I plan to do - when I next open it up

Probably some point next week - which is probably too far away for some of you impatient people but I've only just finished my 7" TFT guide (I also work full time and a Dad of a young toddler so 'free time' is not something I have often lol)

I'll go into as much detail as possible whilst keeping it simple, showing my thought process and how I went about doing what I did. That way people get more of an insight into how to do these things themselves in the future (if they are feeling brave).

@xtreemsurf I like what that guy has done with the xbox receiver! Might have to have a go at that myself without hardwiring to the pi like he has.

I'm amazed that he didn't solder a header to the pi and connect to that for the shutdown (won't give you a reset and shutdown option) and that fan is going to be always on.

He doesn't show you where the wiring on the power switch goes to, only the reset which he seems to be using for shutdown?? I like how he hasn't had to cut any tracks - though I think he may have done something else too as the shutdown/reset buttons are linked just to the 5V supply, not 0V, if I remember correctly from memory. I seem to remember swearing when I saw how they had done it.

That soldering made a little person inside my brain cry too, way too much heat or the iron has been held in position too long... or the wires weren't tinned before trying to join? One of those three anyway.

Rather annoying that I binned my circuit diagram otherwise I'd be able to guide anyone through right now! Didn't think I'd need it again...

@xtreemsurf On a side note if you're interested I will be posting a full guide soon as how to wire up and setup a 7" recalbox system, will also include my own configs and resources to make themes and splash screens look better on the screen too

Screen is about £50 if you are lucky enough, £60 if not. Case is about £10-12 typically on Amazon

@xtreemsurf

1. If you're in a desperate rush then follow any existing guide(s), MY advice for now would be to just connect everything as per the NESPi guide, press the power button in, then plug power into the rear.

To Shutdown, shutdown via Emulationstation (start, quit, shutdown) then remove the power from the box. To turn back on, simply plug power back into it (I know this isn't what you want to do, but it will be a work around for now).

2. Leave the hub alone
   It will take power from the rear connector and can be left 'as is' providing you don't cut the tracks in the wrong place

3. You will find that without a debounce capacitor, when you actually wire the switches direct to the pi you may have issues when pressing the power off button - as the pi may power down but then come back on again. This article actually explains switch bounce very well https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J16/4

As the power LED is directly related to the state of the Power switch (without any mods) this can cause some odd behaviour - like the power light being on, even though the Pi is 'switched off'. That's why it's advisable to use debounce caps.

You can modify the fan connector too so that it runs off the power switch easy enough and something I hadn't considered until just now... WAY more simple than my previous idea of using a fan controller activated off the LED pin on the Pi. The fan will only be on when the power switch is depressed downside is there wouldn't be a switch between 5V and 3V3 but I could just fit a 3V3 linear regulator that should do the job nicely too... interesting when I type my thought process out!

@xtreemsurf
I have mine wired as per the recalbox guide but you still have to cut tracks and make a few mods for it to 'work as intended'

I still use the NESPi connector and the female-female arduino jumpers that I spoke about, you just chop one to length and remove the crimp/contact and place it into the NESPi connector. You will ideally want to place a 100nF capacitor across both switches as a hardware debounce (I don't believe there is any software debounce within recalbox).

The LED, HUB, Fan and pretty much everything inside the box is powered off that power switch so you do have to be careful where you cut, it's a real shame that I binned my 'fag-packet sketch' (which was actually a post-it) of my circuit diagram. If I had another box to play with I'd probably document EVERYTHING but this was meant to be a one of for myself

I also used an overcoat pen on the tracks that I cut but some sort of super-glue would probably work just as well, creating an oxygen barrier preventing the oxidation of the exposed copper (you won't need three guesses to guess what I do for a job!).

Almost finished my 7" TFT build - which I will post a tutorial and resources somewhere as I have created custom splash screens and theme configs, next will be getting the 3.5" and 2.8" screens running and then I'll go back to tidying up the recalbox with 3V3 fan supply (and/or a fan controller of some sort, probably ok to just use a single transistor). At that point I'll take some pictures of all the work I have done. The goal was to make it look 'standard' and so far I've managed to achieve that

@xtreemsurf @lesensei
There is no 'guide' that I used. I did it myself creating a common 5V rail and 0V point (hate the term ground when it's not actually ground). You have to rotate the led and it does require probably more skill than demonstrated in the retropie guide. I also have access to a wealth of SMD parts and spares if I break anything!

It's not perfect as the tinned copper wire I used is non-insulated and carries 5V but it does look incredibly tidy.

I'll be taking mine apart probably over the next couple of weeks for some minor improvements and a fan controller (annoyingly the LED is sourced rather than sunk from the GPIO pin but beggars can't be choosers).

One thing that WILL help you is an arduino jumper set (female-female) as you can simply remove the crimped connector from its housing and click straight into the connector within the NESPi case.

I'll take some pictures and stuff of how I did mine when I next take it apart (do love the case but my main project at the moment is my 7" portable recalbox [almost done] and my 'hardware hack' gameboy with a pi zero W)

@edvis
Amazing! Thank you so much, looks even better now.

Thanks for the help

Is it possible to move the screen right/left and set by emulator?

I ask as in recalbox.conf I have set the N64 to use 'a CRT' even though it's a TFT (works lovely)
n64.videomode=default

The only issue is that on a 800x480 TFT (pretty sure that the resolution of the Pi Foundation branded 7" TFT...) the N64 emulator is fully justified left. - All other emulators have the picture shown central (black borders either side).

Had a beruse through the wiki and Google and have come up stuck again...

(also on a side-note I think deleting the subtitles file disables the 'Recalbox' intro video? - did it by mistake and now the video doesn't play anymore)

@voljega said in Resizing text for TFT Screen in 4.1:

@matra so you mean you can't fing the recalbox theme in 4.1 ?

Did you look in both share and share_init paths ?

Found it [main.xml] in the share_init path, knew it would be something simple that I was missing! Thanks!

@voljega Sorry, bad wording,

That's how you change it in 4.0.2. I have upgraded all of my recalboxes now to 4.1 but I can't find out the process of how to edit the text size in 4.1.

.emulationstation is 'hidden' but easy to access.

I can't find where 'main.xml' is or even if it exists anymore and the text sizes are controlled elsewhere in 4.1.

I do however love the change to 4.1 where if the screen rotation is changed, the system screens rotate with it (in 4.0.2 they did not and I had to manually turn everything upside down!)

I'm probably just being really blind and/or dumb here so feel free to shout abuse (it's late!)

I can't find where to change the text sizes, in 4.0.2

mount -o remount, rw /
cd /etc/emulationstation/themes/recalbox/
nano /etc/emulationstation/themes/recalbox/main.xml

Then change all lines for font size from 0.02 to whatever is required (0.04 worked nicely for me on a 7")

Only emulationstation/themes/recalbox/main.xml doesn't seem to exist anymore?? Or at least I can't find it...

@substring
Found the issue, it's to do with the terminal within WinSCP - which works lovely on 4.0.2 but doesn't want to stop/start.

Opening in Putty and it works fine...

I'm guessing that the MD5 tag in the manager for the dc_flash.bin will be updated at some point?

It asks for dc_flash.bin MD5: d6e11a23f1fa01cddb5dfccf7e4cc8d7
but this post states
0a93f7940c455905bea6e392dfde92a4 dc_flash.bin

I can't find the former but I do have the latter. When upgrading it doesn't show the dc bios MD5 in the online manager but gave them a tick (tried uploading a 'bad' bios and it still gave that a tick too!).

I had originally uploaded
dc_boot.bin MD5: d552d8b577faa079e580659cd3517f86
dc_flash.bin MD5: 74e3f69c2bb92bc1fc5d9a53dcf6ffe2
which seemed to work ok but maybe this is why I'm getting the occasional DC related bug???