I have mine wired as per the recalbox guide but you still have to cut tracks and make a few mods for it to 'work as intended'
I still use the NESPi connector and the female-female arduino jumpers that I spoke about, you just chop one to length and remove the crimp/contact and place it into the NESPi connector. You will ideally want to place a 100nF capacitor across both switches as a hardware debounce (I don't believe there is any software debounce within recalbox).
The LED, HUB, Fan and pretty much everything inside the box is powered off that power switch so you do have to be careful where you cut, it's a real shame that I binned my 'fag-packet sketch' (which was actually a post-it) of my circuit diagram. If I had another box to play with I'd probably document EVERYTHING but this was meant to be a one of for myself :P
I also used an overcoat pen on the tracks that I cut but some sort of super-glue would probably work just as well, creating an oxygen barrier preventing the oxidation of the exposed copper (you won't need three guesses to guess what I do for a job!).
Almost finished my 7" TFT build - which I will post a tutorial and resources somewhere as I have created custom splash screens and theme configs, next will be getting the 3.5" and 2.8" screens running and then I'll go back to tidying up the recalbox with 3V3 fan supply (and/or a fan controller of some sort, probably ok to just use a single transistor). At that point I'll take some pictures of all the work I have done. The goal was to make it look 'standard' and so far I've managed to achieve that