NESPi CASE by Retroflag
-
I have one and modified it myself (re-did power/reset switch and power LED along with fan control). For the fan noise, look at running it from the 3V3 supply rather than the 5V.
[The retropie guide is ok but there is actually another way of doing it, using only a single resistor and some wire - in my eyes much neater too!!]I don't have much issue with the SD card either as most cards are 'lipped' and easy enough to get a small tool in (or fingernail) to hook it out. Can't comment on the LAN port as use mine wireless. All my ROMs are on the SD card(s). One for most emulators, one for PSX games and a dedicated one for the MAME collection
I love the case and was lucky enough to get one of the first batch (only £17 before the price went silly and settled back around the £30 mark).
My only gripes are the space for the USB connector, in my eyes it needs to be just 2mm or so wider allowing for a decent bend radius on the cable.
-
Could you please post a link to the guide that uses only a piece of wire and a resistor? I'm interested in having the power/reset/LED function (with no fan), but would like it to work like my other case with homemade power button with the Recalbox push button enabled through the config file. Thanks!
-
Hello all,
I have that case as well and I'd love to be able to make the hard power/reset buttons softer (through GPIO). I was thinking of following the guide from the retropie forums, but if there's a simpler way, @Matra, I'd be delighted to read about it.
Thanks a bunch.
Regards,
-
@xtreemsurf @lesensei
There is no 'guide' that I used. I did it myself creating a common 5V rail and 0V point (hate the term ground when it's not actually ground). You have to rotate the led and it does require probably more skill than demonstrated in the retropie guide. I also have access to a wealth of SMD parts and spares if I break anything!It's not perfect as the tinned copper wire I used is non-insulated and carries 5V but it does look incredibly tidy.
I'll be taking mine apart probably over the next couple of weeks for some minor improvements and a fan controller (annoyingly the LED is sourced rather than sunk from the GPIO pin but beggars can't be choosers).
One thing that WILL help you is an arduino jumper set (female-female) as you can simply remove the crimped connector from its housing and click straight into the connector within the NESPi case.
I'll take some pictures and stuff of how I did mine when I next take it apart (do love the case but my main project at the moment is my 7" portable recalbox [almost done] and my 'hardware hack' gameboy with a pi zero W)
-
Wow! It sounds like you really put a lot of work into that! Thanks for taking the time to explain a little bit about it.
A quick question for you...
If I don't plan to use a fan, is it possible to just rewire the power/reset/led and wire them like the steps Recalbox power switch guide?
https://github.com/recalbox/recalbox-os/wiki/Add-a-start-stop-button-to-your-recalbox-(EN)
That's how I have my current cheap-o case wired. I wasn't sure if the NES Pi has a powered USB hub that requires power though. My NES Pi will be in tomorrow, so I'll take a closer look at it.
Thanks again!
-
@xtreemsurf
I have mine wired as per the recalbox guide but you still have to cut tracks and make a few mods for it to 'work as intended'I still use the NESPi connector and the female-female arduino jumpers that I spoke about, you just chop one to length and remove the crimp/contact and place it into the NESPi connector. You will ideally want to place a 100nF capacitor across both switches as a hardware debounce (I don't believe there is any software debounce within recalbox).
The LED, HUB, Fan and pretty much everything inside the box is powered off that power switch so you do have to be careful where you cut, it's a real shame that I binned my 'fag-packet sketch' (which was actually a post-it) of my circuit diagram. If I had another box to play with I'd probably document EVERYTHING but this was meant to be a one of for myself
I also used an overcoat pen on the tracks that I cut but some sort of super-glue would probably work just as well, creating an oxygen barrier preventing the oxidation of the exposed copper (you won't need three guesses to guess what I do for a job!).
Almost finished my 7" TFT build - which I will post a tutorial and resources somewhere as I have created custom splash screens and theme configs, next will be getting the 3.5" and 2.8" screens running and then I'll go back to tidying up the recalbox with 3V3 fan supply (and/or a fan controller of some sort, probably ok to just use a single transistor). At that point I'll take some pictures of all the work I have done. The goal was to make it look 'standard' and so far I've managed to achieve that
-
I've done a few small soldering projects, but it sounds like you're much more experienced than I am. Those Pi projects with screens sound amazing!
A couple questions...
- I'm going to wire the power directly to the Pi, and then connect the 2 switches & LED to the Pi pins as described in the guide, correct? I'm assuming this would require cutting a few traces on the NES Pi board.
2 ) Could I wire the USB hub to receive its power from the same wire as LED? I'm not clear on how the power switch will control the power (using the Recalbox guide method), while still
providing power to the USB hub and possible fan.- You mentioned using capacitors on some of the connections. Would the system still work without them...or am I more likely to damage something without the capacitors?
I was trying to follow what you described in your last two posts, but I feel like I don't quite understand fully. I know you're busy on your other two projects, so please take your time on getting back to me. Thanks again!
-
- If you're in a desperate rush then follow any existing guide(s), MY advice for now would be to just connect everything as per the NESPi guide, press the power button in, then plug power into the rear.
To Shutdown, shutdown via Emulationstation (start, quit, shutdown) then remove the power from the box. To turn back on, simply plug power back into it (I know this isn't what you want to do, but it will be a work around for now).
-
Leave the hub alone
It will take power from the rear connector and can be left 'as is' providing you don't cut the tracks in the wrong place -
You will find that without a debounce capacitor, when you actually wire the switches direct to the pi you may have issues when pressing the power off button - as the pi may power down but then come back on again. This article actually explains switch bounce very well https://www.pololu.com/docs/0J16/4
As the power LED is directly related to the state of the Power switch (without any mods) this can cause some odd behaviour - like the power light being on, even though the Pi is 'switched off'. That's why it's advisable to use debounce caps.
You can modify the fan connector too so that it runs off the power switch easy enough and something I hadn't considered until just now... WAY more simple than my previous idea of using a fan controller activated off the LED pin on the Pi. The fan will only be on when the power switch is depressed
downside is there wouldn't be a switch between 5V and 3V3 but I could just fit a 3V3 linear regulator that should do the job nicely too... interesting when I type my thought process out! -
@xtreemsurf On a side note if you're interested I will be posting a full guide soon as how to wire up and setup a 7" recalbox system, will also include my own configs and resources to make themes and splash screens look better on the screen too
Screen is about £50 if you are lucky enough, £60 if not. Case is about £10-12 typically on Amazon
-
Thanks for your insight on this. That article was useful in helping me to understand switch bounce.
I looked around for a simpler solution that would meet my needs and came across this project with these pictures. It seems to do everything I would need to it do, with only one downside...the Pi is in an "always on state" so when it's plugged in, it will automatically turn on the Pi, even if the power button isn't pushed. Would you mind letting me know your opinion of this wiring? The only difference is that I would wire the reset button to the GP0 pin as described in the Recalbox guide, instead of soldering directly to the Pi.
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/Y4Ti8
Thanks so much!
-
@xtreemsurf I like what that guy has done with the xbox receiver! Might have to have a go at that myself without hardwiring to the pi like he has.
I'm amazed that he didn't solder a header to the pi and connect to that for the shutdown (won't give you a reset and shutdown option) and that fan is going to be always on.
He doesn't show you where the wiring on the power switch goes to, only the reset which he seems to be using for shutdown?? I like how he hasn't had to cut any tracks - though I think he may have done something else too as the shutdown/reset buttons are linked just to the 5V supply, not 0V, if I remember correctly from memory. I seem to remember swearing when I saw how they had done it.
That soldering made a little person inside my brain cry too, way too much heat or the iron has been held in position too long... or the wires weren't tinned before trying to join? One of those three anyway.
Rather annoying that I binned my circuit diagram otherwise I'd be able to guide anyone through right now! Didn't think I'd need it again...
-
Thanks @Matra and @xtreemsurf , this thread is pretty interesting. I'm a complete newbie with electronics so I'm not gonna try anything without a guide to follow, but my understanding is that such a guide doesn't exist yet for those who want to be able to use the "PIN356ONOFFRESET" option integrated into recalbox. Am I right in that ?
And @Matra, could it not help those more versed into this than myself if you took photos of your wiring with comments, much like the imgur thread linked above ?
Thanks for your insights !
-
@lesensei That's exactly what I plan to do - when I next open it up
Probably some point next week - which is probably too far away for some of you impatient people but I've only just finished my 7" TFT guide (I also work full time and a Dad of a young toddler so 'free time' is not something I have often lol)
I'll go into as much detail as possible whilst keeping it simple, showing my thought process and how I went about doing what I did. That way people get more of an insight into how to do these things themselves in the future (if they are feeling brave).
-
Thanks @matra, that's very good to hear. I'm indeed impatient, but by no means do I want to put undue pressure on you. I have a full time job and 2 young children myself so I can relate !
Actually, my recalbox+nespi project is supposed to be the xmas gift for my eldest son, who I saw having a hard time playing super mario with his cousins for lack of experience with a joypad... I want it to work nice and easy, but if the power buttons are not perfect when he gets it, I don't think he'll mind very much
Thanks again for your insights.
-
Thanks, @Matra for all your wisdom. I'm definitely in no rush. I've been doing a little work with the fan on my homemade case and I'm considering keeping my current case instead of switching to the NesPi. I really like the look of the NesPi though!
I have 4 1/2 year old twins and a 10 month old, so I also don't have as much time as I'd like to work on projects like this. I built the current Pi for my twins so they could experience some of the games my wife and I used to play when we were growing up.
I'll keep watching this thread, but definitely take your time on the guide. Family comes first!
-
@xtreemsurf @lesensei
Not sure if you've seen my other project here: https://forum.recalbox.com/topic/9934/guide-recalbox-on-7-tft I've made it as simple as possible for others to create what I did.I'm making good progress on the smaller screen too (using the adafruit 2.8" screen) but that might go on temporary hold next week whilst I finish off my NESPi box
I'm very happy with the configs, custom splash screens and intro video on my 7" and consider that project done (so now I can play games on it more lol)
Need to implement my new idea with the fan in the nespi with power running off the switch and make a few other tweaks. Hopefully by the end of next week as I tend to tweak it on lunch breaks at work
-
Hi there. I have Voigt the case too but I have some serious issues with it. I brought the Recalbox to friends, to have a retro Gaming night. But it turned into a nightmare. The Bluetooth stick couldnt connect to neither Ps3 normalerweise ps4 controllers, because for some reason the Board doesn't have enough current for more than one controller. I have a good 3.5 Power supply and if I rip the py out of the case ist works like a Charm.
Furthermore it was also impossible to connect the controllers via USB. More than two of them made the pi restart All over again, because there wasn't enough Power. I am wondering if the case I received is Faulty? S**tty Controllers for 5€ did the trick, but top notch Hardware doesn't work.
I am also using a fan, removing it changed nothing. I am not overclocked and the Recalbox works very well without the case.
Any ideas? Could I just buy a better Power supply with more then 3.5 Amperes?
-
Hello @Seramis12345
I have read elsewhere that indeed the case is giving problems to people connecting USB devices on it: since it uses its own power module to power the Pi through the GPIOs, I guess it has its own limits and buying a different power supply won't help (as you have seen yourself, your power supply is not at fault).
I still chose to buy this case because I intend on using bluetooth controllers, but indeed I think this case is not for everyone. Or you need to make more hardware tweaks to it in order to use your own power supply directly...
Regards,
-
I have still one spare PI3 lying around, and like my bartop is finished, I decided to put it also to work.
So, I order a black Nespi Case
https://www.amazon.de/Yikeshu-Retroflag-Himbeer-Modell-Himbeere/dp/B075QG8R4J/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1509963504&sr=8-9&keywords=nespi+case
and such 180° USB connector
https://www.amazon.de/abgewinkelt-2-0-Adapter-Stecker-Verlängerung-90-180-Grad/dp/B00DPQ84R2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509963660&sr=8-4&keywords=usb+180°
I hope that it will fit for the CSL Sanwa Clone receiver, to put everything together in the box. So also television now involved.... -
I guess you got me wront here. I am indeed using the device with a bluetooth dongle. It workd perfectly with the pi itself but when I am using the NESPI Case, I don´t get enought current for pairing a new controller. This is due to the fact that in order to pair a new controller, you have to connect it via USB . And as soon as this is happening, the pi doesn´t get enough current, resulting in strange behaviours. Such as: Restarting itself, working USB-Connection but not working bluetooth dongle or vica versa. However one cannot connect new devices to the dongle. If you take away the case this is working. And I guess if you are willing to buy yourself 4 Controllers which you will only use with the Nespi and never ever with some other device, this may do the trick but then again.... 30 Euros for a device with a lacking current in terms of powering a single bluetooth dongle and one USB-Controller for the sole purpose of connecting it via Bluetooth and not powering it as a whole, is one f**king mess and I also think a rip of. I think I will do a hardware hack and cut wholes into the box, so use the normal pi outputs instead.
I was just asking here because I was curious if I have gotten a faulty device. But if everyone has these issues it is just pricy crap.
