I then heated and bent the acrylic.

A test fit...

More to come as the build continues.

This is a build I have wanted to do for a while and finally got around to making it. I'll be using acrylic and red oak, along with a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and the EasyGet controllers from Amazon.com.

On with the details...

I cut and etched .2" acrylic on the laser cutter.

I cut two pieces of oak for the sides and then routed an edge for the acrylic to sit on.

A test fit...

I cut an oak base so that I can mount the Pi and boards.

This arcade will be on display at a local maker showcase. I need a way to easily detach the base from the sides to explain how things work. To hold things together, I'll use 12 small rare earth magnets. Later on, I'll probably add pocket hole screws to make it more secure.

Drilling holes for the magnets.

Magnets added to the side and base using CA glue.

I then stained the wood.

The next step will be to add a poly finish to the wood and then assemble everything.

I cut two pieces of oak for the sides and then routed an edge for the acrylic to sit on.

A test fit...

I cut an oak base so that I can mount the Pi and boards.

This arcade will be on display at a local maker showcase. I need a way to easily detach the base from the sides to explain how things work. To hold things together, I'll use 12 small rare earth magnets. Later on, I'll probably add pocket hole screws to make it more secure.

Drilling holes for the magnets.

Magnets added to the side and base using CA glue.

I then stained the wood.

The next step will be to add a poly finish to the wood and then assemble everything.

Vinyl cutting the stickers to place on the LED buttons.

Finishing the wiring.

I felt like I was going to go blind trying to "weed" this from the vinyl.

All lit up. Looking good!

Next step will be to cut the oak sides and base.

@substring, lol. Valid point.

I know it is probably taboo, but I'm not a huge fan of those games. I built this for the nostalgia of playing Atari 2600, Nintendo, and some of the arcade games of my youth. At this time, I'm not a huge fan of the games that required 6 buttons.

If that does change, I could easily add the extra buttons. They are just sitting in a box.

@substring, I cut a test control panel out of wood and played the games for about a month with 6 buttons. I couldn't figure out a good use for the 2 extra buttons (outside of page up/down). So, this will be my test of only using 4 buttons. Select will double as the hotkey on this panel.

@the-real-phoenix, yes, I'm a member of a local TechShop. The tools here are amazing.

I then heated and bent the acrylic.

A test fit...

More to come as the build continues.

This is a build I have wanted to do for a while and finally got around to making it. I'll be using acrylic and red oak, along with a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and the EasyGet controllers from Amazon.com.

On with the details...

I cut and etched .2" acrylic on the laser cutter.

Here is an update.

I configure player 1. Everything works fine. I can even restart the Pi and it remembers the setting.

I then configure player 2. Everything works fine, except for the fact that the player 2 controls are now player 1.

Now, here is the odd part....I remove the two USB cables from the Pi and swap USB ports. It fixes the problem. Player 1 controls are now recognized as Player 1 in ES. I can restart the Pi and it remembers the setting.

So, the "fix" is to swap the USB cables/ports on the Pi for ES to recognize them properly.

Any thoughts or comments on why this may the case and why it fixes it?

Ok. I've been looking through for forums, but havent found anything that helps yet.

One thing I noticed when looking in the es_input.cfg file, both are trying to use the same device GUID. Is that an issue or should I be seeing multiple devices for player 1 and 2?

I'll recheck the wires. There aren't many.

Ok. This one is driving me a bit nuts. I could use a second opinion.

I purchased these controllers and am connecting it to a Raspberry Pi 3 Model B. I'm running RecalBox 4.0.2.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WAY9848/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I wired them exactly the same. I'm only using 6 buttons per player (A/B/X/Y, Start, Select, and re-using Select as the hotkey).

In general, they work fine. Recalbox recognizes them as #0 Dragonrise Generic USB Joystick and #1 Dragonrise Generic USB Joystick.

The problem is that Recalbox keeps making the player 1 control player 2. And player 2 is always player 1. I try to reverse these on the controller settings for Input 1 and 2. However, it doesnt make a difference.,

Any thoughts? Is there something I can edit in one of the configuration files?